Ex. 1: So You Want on the Plane …
Sunday night a good friend left St. Petersburg, setting out on his way home to Australia (by way of Siberia, Mongolia, and China). A large group of us decided to accompany him on his final farewell. We arrived at the airport more than an hour and a half before his plane was set to leave. Trying to check him in, we found that it was too early, and they would announce when boarding for his flight began. Off to the cafe we strolled to have one last dinner together. About fourty minutes before his plane was set to depart, we heard some muffled announcement about boarding and his flight.
Upon arriving at the check-in gate, they promptly muttered that boarding had finished and shut the door. This didn’t set well with us, so after some exchanges, the security guard asked if we had a chocolate bar. I immediately burst into laughter, thinking that my Russian friend who was acting as translator was joking. She couldn’t seriously be asking for a chocolate bar bribe, could she? Indeed, after responding that we did not have any chocolate, she retorted “but you have a friend who can go get one,” and pointed at David (an alaskan who’s been here three weeks). Still not understanding that she was serious, it took several repetitions and pointing before we decided that yes, Dave ought to go run back to the cafe and buy some chocolate bars.
As Dave went off, Nick was allowed to pass through the first security barrier on to the next while the requesting guard stood in front of the main entrance awaiting her chocolate. Dave made it back with two cholocate packages, and handed them over to the lady who kindly accepted them, then shut the door. We were left to assume that we had sufficiently greased the wheels of bureaucracy to allow Nick to board the plane, and wandered off into the night.
Incidentally, the reason Dave brought back two bars of chocolate was because the woman at the cafe didn’t have change, and was instead giving out little lollipops in increments of five rubles. I myself was the recipient of two. He figured that instead of receiving eight lollipops, he might as well just get another bar. The airport was cool as well. It was designed in that 1960’s futuristic style that I absolutely love. I felt as if I was in a spy movie during the height of the Cold War. In short, kick ass.
Ex. 2: An Expensive Piss
This story is second hand, I wasn’t there myselft, but everyone told it with the same details, so it’s true in my book. On the way to a club last week, most of the people involved were pretty drunk, and one of them had to take a piss pretty bad. He separated from the group and walked to the outside of a metro station. He had just started to piss on the wall when a cop car drove by, stopped, and a police officer walked out. Freaking out, my friend quickly pulled up his pants and turned towards the others, who were not rather far away. Unfortunately, this friend had only been studying Russian several weeks, and thus had no idea what the cops were saying, or how to answer. Two of the other friends went back to his aid.
The gist is this, they told him that a new city ordinance required that he be brought down to the station. After some haggling, they demanded he pay a 500 ruble ($17.50) fine. The officer then went back to the car, where his superior officer decided that for Americans, the fine was now 1,000 rubles. I suppose happy not to go to jail, my friend paid for the most expensive piss he has ever taken. The same sort of situation happened to some French friends of mine. Although in their defense, pissing on the streets is a common practice in France, so they didn’t know that it would get them in trouble here. Seriously, it’s pretty common, I’ve seen it … a lot.
Ex. 3: Beer Beer Everywhere Nor Any Drop to Drink
On Friday night, we had a going away party for the Aussie mention in example one. It was a rather large party that lasted until 7am. To give an example of how much alcohol was consumed, there were liquour runs every hour to replenish the supplies. (To say that the foreigners here consume a lot of alcohol would be like saying Homer wrote a couple of poems. We’re talking epic proportions.) As could be inferred, some alcohol was spilled and some bottles broken. Some accidentally, some on purpose as depression egged on by alcohol pushed some to engage in wanton destruction.
Come morning, the maid saw the carnage and demanded recompense. A suitable “fine” of 2,000 rubles ($70) was imposed, and she went about her business of cleaning up. The reason I place this here is that I don’t think it ever was an official fine. It seems to me that this was the maid’s way of saying, “you do something like this, and you’d better grease my palms unless you want the administration involved.” Considering the fact that she had already cut her hand on some of the glass, I think she was well within her rights to ask for such an amount. Although, to put the amount in perspective, one month’s rent for a shared room is 2,300 rubles per person.
Ex. 4 Sleeping Over
In the dorm (”ob” in our slang, short for “obshezhitiye”), all guests must leave the premises by 11pm. This is just one example of the paternalistic Soviet apparatus that has seeped into Russian culture, and an annoying one at that. We’re college kids, the idea that we go to bed anytime near 11pm is ludicrous at best. It seems ridiculous to for guests to have to leave at such an early hour, but such is life. If you want anyone to sleep over (be it for friends visiting from out of town or special friends), the official version is that they can’t. However, the unofficial version is that if you slip the two guards at the front desk a certain sum of money, your guest(s) checks out at 11pm and magically rechecks in at 7am. The amount of the bribe differs depending on how well you know the guards. Anywhere from 500 rubles to 100 rubles seems to be the appropriate range.
Conclusion:
It seems to me that bribery, as it is practised by average people in Russia isn’t so much corruption as a way of making the system more efficient. The Soviet system was an overwhelming bureaucracy without comparison back in the States. It makes the DMV look like a model of customer service and efficiency. The more time I spend over here, the more I realize how true to life the movie Brazil was. The system has become entrenched in many aspects of Russian culture, and it is difficult to get rid of. Indeed, any type of government expansion is rarely rolled back.
This is pure speculation on my part, I have never done any study on the history of Soviet/Russian social institutions, but my experience over here has led me to certain conclusions. A bribe, even on such a small level as bringing chocolate to some random, low-level functionary, is a way of speeding up the system. Neither person really wants to deal with the red tape, and this allows both parties to gain from the transaction. In it’s own perverted way, it’s pure capitalism - cashing in on unused utility in the system.
The security guard didn’t want Nick to miss his flight, but he was, technically, past due. This way she got something in return for her kindness. The police did not want to deal with dragging someone down to the station, filling out paperwork, etc. Instead, my friend got to continue his evening, and the police officers got some vodka money. After the party, the hallway was a mess, and the maid was going to have to clean it up no matter what. Going to the administration wouldn’t save the fact that it was her job to pick up the broken bottles. To make the best of the situation, she asked for some money from the party organizers to get them out of the hassle of dealing with the front office. It was a win-win deal.
I’m not saying this to excuse bribery, but it is worth noting that in this form, the bribery is egalitarian, open to all. It’s not some big corporation or union making sweetheart deals with their pet politicians (though that assuredly happens here to excess). This bribery helps avoid a giant, dehumanizing bureaucracy, while at the same time facilitating interaction. I like to think of it as “Underground Capitalism*.”
* Soon to be trademarked