My Saint Petersburg

Owen | Russia | Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

I’ve shown a lot of pretty pictures of Saint Petersburg on here before, and I’ve also posted some pictures from my old neighborhood.  It recently occurred to me, however, that I haven’t really put up many pictures that show the more gritty side of the city.  English Russia has a post on “Another View on St. Petersburg,” which shows a more realistic sampling of city views.  These pictures show the flip side to the imperial beauty of downtown Nevsky, but it was these views that attracted me just as much:

This is a college, very much like the one where I first studied.

Typical post office, next to the entrance to an apartment building.

 

Swimming Pool and coffee shop.  Reminds me of my days at the dorm on Vasilievsky Island, when one of the main streets was torn up for a year.

Typical Apartment building courtyard.

The entrance archway to an apartment complex.

I love this city.  I love the shining, vibrant center, and I love the dark, decrepit center.  They both coexist in an appropriate parallel for the overall state of the country as a whole.

Putin Visits Abkhazia, Preparations For Russian Military Bases

Owen | Former Soviet Union, Politics, Russia | Thursday, May 14th, 2009

Vladimir Putin will be the first Russian prime minister to visit Abkhazia. Legally recognized as part of Georgia by every country in the world except Russia and Nicaragua, Abkhazia is pretty surely being sucked deep into the Russian state. It was always a subject of significant Russian influence and support, but after last summer’s way with Georgia, it seems like Russia has decided to stop playing games and start to absorb the place. Why else would the Russian Minister of the Interior, Rashid Nurgaliyev, visit Abkhazia?

Vice-Speaker of the Georgian Parliament, Mikheil Machavariani, summed up Georgia’s view:

“This will have very serious consequences for the international image of Russia. But that’s Russian politics right now, they don’t give a damn about anything.”

President Sergey Bagapsh of Abkhazia says they’ve reached a deal with Russia on military bases:

According to Bagapsh, the construction works have already started on the plots allotted for Russian military bases, and the only thing left was to sign the formal agreement between Russia and Abkhazia.

Russians Combat Crisis by Spending

Owen | Culture, Former Soviet Union, Russia | Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

Russian spending habits, as I learned when I was over there, are … peculiar. But ultimately rational based on their set of circumstances.

Russians are reacting to the economic crisis by spending. 23 percent of those with savings secure them by investing in long-lasting consumer goods to secure themselves against the declining rouble.

You don’t know what tomorrow could bring,” says 33-year-old Alexei, logistician at a Moscow chain dealing in car parts: “In Russia you definitely don’t know.” In the prosperous years, Alexei had a feeling of stability and developed a mind for thriftiness and saving. Once the crisis arrived, he went straight back to making his dreams tangible: In a flash, the cheap Mazda was sold and a new Honda Accord was parked in the Garage: “I can have what I want in an instant, why wait?” says Alexei.

What’s the Deal with Iceland??

Owen | Culture, Politics, What Were They Thinking | Saturday, March 14th, 2009

Michael Lewis, in Wall Street on the Tundra, paints an interesting picture of Icelandic culture and the craze that led to the country’s spectacular financial collapse. It’s a long piece, but well worth the read:

Iceland’s de facto bankruptcy—its currency (the krona) is kaput, its debt is 850 percent of G.D.P., its people are hoarding food and cash and blowing up their new Range Rovers for the insurance—resulted from a stunning collective madness. What led a tiny fishing nation, population 300,000, to decide, around 2003, to re-invent itself as a global financial power? In Reykjavík, where men are men, and the women seem to have completely given up on them, the author follows the peculiarly Icelandic logic behind the meltdown.

Back away from the Icelandic economy and you can’t help but notice something really strange about it: the people have cultivated themselves to the point where they are unsuited for the work available to them. All these exquisitely schooled, sophisticated people, each and every one of whom feels special, are presented with two mainly horrible ways to earn a living: trawler fishing and aluminum smelting. There are, of course, a few jobs in Iceland that any refined, educated person might like to do. Certifying the nonexistence of elves, for instance. (“This will take at least six months—it can be very tricky.”) But not nearly so many as the place needs, given its talent for turning cod into Ph.D.’s. At the dawn of the 21st century, Icelanders were still waiting for some task more suited to their filigreed minds to turn up inside their economy so they might do it.

In retrospect, there are some obvious questions an Icelander living through the past five years might have asked himself. For example: Why should Iceland suddenly be so seemingly essential to global finance? Or: Why do giant countries that invented modern banking suddenly need Icelandic banks to stand between their depositors and their borrowers—to decide who gets capital and who does not? And: If Icelanders have this incredible natural gift for finance, how did they keep it so well hidden for 1,100 years? At the very least, in a place where everyone knows everyone else, or his sister, you might have thought that the moment Stefan Alfsson walked into Landsbanki 10 people would have said, “Stefan, you’re a fisherman!” But they didn’t. To a shocking degree, they still don’t. “If I went back to banking,” he says, with an entirely straight face, “I would be a private-banking guy.”

Russian Sport: Face-Slapping

Owen | Culture, Former Soviet Union, Humour, Russia, Video | Wednesday, March 11th, 2009

This is one of a serious of outstanding commercials from about 10 years ago. Fox Region Sports Report put on a brilliant campaign, featuring Turkey, India, China, South Africa, and Russia. When I first saw this video, it was just another funny clip with a man speaking gibberish. Little did I know that I would one day travel to that land. Whoever made the video knew their stuff on Russia. I love the guy looking at the camera in the beginning of the video, who’s pulled off frame. Reminds me of a very famous Runet clip. Anyways, enjoy:

America to Russia: “We’re Pushovers. Kick Us Again.”

Owen | Former Soviet Union, Politics, Russia | Tuesday, March 3rd, 2009

The past 17 years in Russia have been full of traumatic changes, but perhaps the biggest one is falling from one of the two Great Powers to a hellish backwater spat on by the West. Material suffering is nothing new to Russians, they’ve been genetically programmed to deal with it. What they can’t deal with, however, is the psychological humiliation of the prestige drop from Number One (in a tie) to a third-world country.

Russia has for centuries considered itself a “Great Power,” (Великая Держава), participating first in the empire games of the 1700s and 1800s, and then a military superpower (if economic nightmare) in the 20th century. This was a country that, in their opinion, saved Europe from Napoleon and Hitler, then went toe-to-toe with the United States of America. In their mind, the Cold War didn’t end because America won, but because the Soviet Union decided to stop fighting and give freedom a chance. Instead of having this decision respected, the West treated them like losers, and abandoned their nascent democracy.

A decade of rampant crime, chaos, and social disintegration shamed the country both internally and externally. Not only was Russia not a superpower, but often they were only given a seat at the table out of pity - and they knew it. Perhaps the most frustrating was the fact that Russia no longer had any sway even in its own backyard! The “Near Abroad” or former Soviet Union and Soviet controlled space were now being subsumed into Western structures. First NATO enlarged, then bombed a historic ally, then enlarged again and with it the EU. Russians are paranoid, and possibly with good reason. At their core, the Russian and Soviet empires were expansionist because they felt that the only way to protect the homeland was by having buffer zones, so that when they were attacked, the invaders would have to go through all those other lands first. After the fall of the Soviet Union, they did not only lose control of the buffer zones, but the historical enemy (or “likely enemy” in the Soviet vocabulary “вероятный противник”) was taking control of the lands, and moving closer and closer to Russia’s immediate border.

With Putin, and rising oil prices, Russia began to regain a certain amount of power. As time showed Europe’s dependence on Russian gas, their importance rose even more. Putin’s popularity can be directly traced to the material gains made under him, but also because of the vastly increased prominence that Russia was given in the international arena.

Last summer’s war in Georgia showed how powerless the West was to protect its allies on Russia’s border. They could have gone to Tbilisi, and we likely wouldn’t have done anything about it. In the end, though, they showed their might and destroyed much of the military infrastructure that had been built up in Georgia. Fresh from that victory, and after the election of a man who basically put the world on watch that America was rolling back its influence, Russia decided to help us in that endeavor. They got us kicked out of Kyrgyzstan, and founded a “rapid-reaction force” with the Collective Security Treaty Organization to counter NATO influence in the region.

Obama is playing even more into their hands by promising to back off the missile defense program in Poland and the Czech Republic if Russia promises to help on Iran. The West is more or less united in wanting to pressure Iran, and we should be able to work with them to get Russia on board. Instead, we cave in, showing the world how powerful Russia is becoming - exactly what they want. Medvedev seized perfectly on this to rebuff Obama, saying that “haggling … was not productive.” But welcoming “positive signals” by America to address Russian concerns.

Russia has outplayed us once again. Americans fundamentally don’t understand the importance of narrative in international affairs, and Russians are masters at the game. Learning from necessity during the Soviet Union, the Russians always have great reasons for awful things that they do, Americans always have awful reasons for the great things they do. The missile shield poses absolutely no threat to Russia, but they have succeeded in convincing large parts of Western society that we are sticking our finger in their eye. Russian politicians knowingly and cynically sell this lie to their people, who honestly believe that NATO is gearing up to attack Russia, and they use that fear among their people to boost their claims of grievance. We have every right to build that system (leaving aside the fact that it’s not quite yet proven), and it is a defense against the launching of a rogue missile or two, it in no way threatens Russia’s store of thousands.

Medvedev seized upon Obama’s actions as one of weakness, and doubled down by dismissing him. He played it perfect for his audience, and now we’ll have real trouble gaining back that ground. We look weak. First, we showed that we couldn’t defend our interests in Georgia, then Kyrgyzia, and now we can’t even defend our interest in Europe. Instead of negotiating with Iran from a position of strength, the events of the past few months have put us in a position of waning influence. Have no doubt that Iran will run with this narrative as well. Now, instead of demanding that Iran cease enrichment and development, any meeting will have us begging and groveling. Is this really the change that we had hoped for?

Mundane Social Networking

Owen | Culture, Humour, Pictures | Tuesday, March 3rd, 2009

Sad, but true. I blame LiveJournal.

Future Man

Future Man

Enhanced Driver’s License’s to be Equipped with RFID

Owen | Politics | Monday, March 2nd, 2009

This is pretty scary. I’m all for securing the borders, making sure that we know who is coming into our country, but once you’re inside, this is a free country, and you shouldn’t be tracked:

“Privacy advocates are issuing warnings about a new radio chip plan that ultimately could provide electronic identification for every adult in the U.S. and allow agents to compile attendance lists at anti-government rallies simply by walking through the assembly.”

This is something you would expect Russia to put in their internal passports.

Siege of Leningrad Superimposed over Modern Day St. Petersburg

Owen | Former Soviet Union, Pictures, Russia | Thursday, February 26th, 2009

Here are some haunting pictures of Leningrad during the siege, superimposed over a picture of the same location today. I know most of these locations, and some of them I passed by daily. I can hardly believe what the city went through during the war:

Ligovskiy Prospekt Metro

Ligovskiy Prospekt Metro

Walking on Nevskiy Prospekt

Walking on Nevskiy Prospekt

Click for the whole series

Russian Attacks Kyrgyzstan

Owen | Russia | Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

Well, it was a cyber attack:

In January of 2009 the world witnessed the third successful cyber attack against a country. The target was the small country of Kyrgyzstan. …The attackers focused on the three of the four Internet service providers. They launched a distributed denial of service attack traffic and quickly overwhelmed the three and disrupting all Internet communications.

The attack seems to be politically motivated and is the latest example of geopolitical disputes being fought with cyber weapons. Cyber Intelligence Analysts stated that attacks were launched to disrupt demands that leaders halt plans to prohibit access to an airbase for the US military in its war in Afghanistan. The analysts went on to say the Russian officials want nothing more than the base closed as soon as possible.

This is starting to be a problem, and is only going to get worse. China has gotten in on the action as well. Cyberwarfare - a new discipline.

Rail Takes Back Seat as States Target Obama Stimulus for Roads

Owen | Politics | Wednesday, January 14th, 2009

If we’re going to be spending trillions of dollars, at least use it on the things that we all want, but haven’t been willing to pony up for. Roads will always get paid for (at least if there are responsible people in office). We need to use this money for public transportation and other goods that might be socially valuable, but have a hard time being justified in a pure capitalistic/individualistic cost-benefit-analysis.

After all, isn’t this who the Democrats claim to be anyways? Well, like most of their claims, it’s not true in reality:

Missouri’s plan to spend $750 million in federal money on highways and nothing on mass transit in St. Louis doesn’t square with President-elect Barack Obama’s vision for a revolutionary re-engineering of the nation’s infrastructure.

Utah would pour 87 percent of the funds it may receive in a new economic stimulus bill into new road capacity. Arizona would spend $869 million of its $1.2 billion wish list on highways.

While many states are keeping their project lists secret, plans that have surfaced show why environmentalists and some development experts say much of the stimulus spending may promote urban sprawl while scrimping on more green-friendly rail and mass transit.

Kostya’s Wedding

Owen | Russia | Friday, January 9th, 2009

Most Russians don’t get married in a church. Instead, the ceremony takes about 15 minutes, and is done in the courthouse. More specifically, it’s called ZAGS (Registry of Civil Status Acts). In order to destroy the church, the Soviet government took many aspects of religious life and shifted them to the State. As such, the ceremony in ZAGS, while it doesn’t mention God, is basically a religious ceremony, covering many of the same themes.

The ZAGS in St. Petersburg where Kostya and Katya were married is a beautiful old palace on the banks of the Neva. The ceremony involves two witnesses, one each from the bride and groom’s side - I was Kostya’s. The witness don’t have a lot of formal duties, but they should help with the preparations for the wedding. I was out of the country, and so much of what I should have shouldered was done by Kostya. In fact, I messed up one of the few things that I did have to do. In the morning, Kostya took off early for ZAGS by car, and I was to take his family there by metro. Well, halfway there, I get a call, “Owen, do you have the rings?” After a quick check, “uh, no, they’re in my backpack in the apartment, and I don’t have the keys.” Kostya had to drive all the way back to let me in. Interestingly, the preparations for the wedding have been full of difficulties followed by unexpected blessings. We were definitely running late by the time Kostya met me at the apartment, but God cleared a way for us on the way back to ZAGS as we basically hit nothing but green lights.

The only people in attendance at ZAGS besides the withesses were immediate family. The ceremony takes place in an chamber that is a combination office and waiting room. A woman presided, and it was apparent she does this a dozen times a day. The spiel was smooth and well-oiled, if at times robotic - though I’m sure she meant what she said. Kostya and Katya signed a document and exchanged rings. The other witness and I also signed a document - hopefully that doesn’t obligate me to something unexpected!

Since the ceremony was on New Year’s, and because the ZAGS stop is mostly a formality for believers, the rings came off and we set out for some errands. The parents went back to the apartment to prepare for New Year’s, and a feast was had that evening. Kostya later told me that though he had worn the ring only for a few minutes, after taking it off he felt like something was missing.

This is where the wedding story ends for most Russians. Kostya and Katya, however, are Christians, so the most important was yet to come. The religious ceremony was held at St. Peter’s Lutheran Church on Nevsky, right in the middle of downtown. The ceremony would have been recognizable to any American, though they decided to add in communion as well. Many Russians, however, have never seen a church wedding, and a group of tourists were lucky enough to pass through the sanctuary just as the bride was walking down the aisle. You can see them in the picture, up in the bleachers. Incidentally, this church was used as a swimming pool by the Soviets. So Kostya and Katya’s wedding was an act in the continuing process of reclamation and rededication.

After the ceremony, the bride and groom drove around the city, taking pictures at places of interest (Strelka, Spas na Krovi, etc.), and the rest of us headed over to the banquet. The setting was intimate and meaningful - the café of the Christian university where Kostya studied when he first moved to the city. Wishes were said, I gave my Best Man’s speech. Games were played, songs were sung. Gorko was shouted.

There is a Russian wedding tradition that when the people at the banquet start shouting “Bitter, Bitter!” (Gorko), the newlyweds are supposed to kiss. And not just a peck, but a full on snoging. Honesty, it makes me a bit uncomfortable. I grew up in an environment that looked down on public displays of affection. I know it’s a wedding, but still. It would definitely be awkward for me - though perhaps I’d feel different in the moment. A Russian friend of mine, however, said that she would definitely feel unsatisfied if they didn’t do it at her wedding. Kostya decided to add in some American traditions as well - the first dance was held to “Nothing Else Matters,” and he carried Katya over the threshold of their apartment on the way home.

All in all a great time was had by all. You can check out pictures of the wedding here or at Facebook.

Here are a few of my favorites:

From Kostya's Wedding
From Kostya's Wedding
From Kostya's Wedding
From Kostya's Wedding
From Kostya's Wedding
From Kostya's Wedding

Family New Year’s in St. Petersburg, Russia

Owen | Personal, Russia | Friday, January 2nd, 2009

After four New Year’s in the vicinity of St. Petersburg, I finally spent one here and saw Palace Square. Last year’s was a particularly low note. I rang in the New Year standing alone, on a frozen Des Moines, Iowa road, after just coming from a Hillary Clinton rally.

This was the most traditional New Year’s, slightly edging out my first, wich was celebrated in the SPBGU dorm. I spent it at the house of a very dear friend, who was married earlier in the day at ZAGS. Kostya’s family had driven all the way out from Kirov (pretty far away, near the Urals), and the family of the bride was also in attendance.

New Year’s is the biggest celebration for Russians, and is basically the same as our Christmas. It’s a family holiday, Ded Moroz gives gifts, and the house is decorated with a “New Year’s tree” and “New Year’s ornaments.” The whole family gathers around a table that is jam packed with food, at least half of which are different salads made from mayonnaise. There will also be some different cakes, and tangerines (or mandarins, or clementines, or whatever they’re called. I’m sure there’s a difference, but those are all the same to me). Tangerines are, along with a tree and guy in red suit, a staple of New Year’s. For a Russian, the smell alone brings back memories. Kind of like the incense that used to burn everywhere in Germany at Christmas when I was a kid. (Just don’t leave your shoes out in front of your door. They won’t be filled with candy in the morning, they’ll be gone).

At midnight, the president speaks. This was Dmitry Medvedev’s first New Year’s speech, and he sounded a lot like Putin. Nothing special in his message (the West is out to get Russia), but I’ve been shocked by how much he’s changed his speech patterns and rhythms in the past year to speak like Putin. I used to totally think that he really did get out there and talk at midnight, as shown in the clock. Silly, naïve little American. His New Year’s video was posted on the net as early as 6pm that day.

After midnight, we all left to go downtown and walk around Nevsky a bit. St. Petersburg is decorated beautifully, I’ve never seen the city go all out like this before. Lots of pretty lights everywhere (which is all it takes to make me happy) bathing the already stunning architecture. Whoever you are reading this, you MUST visit St. Petersburg in your lifetime, and it’s worth seeing all the more so when prettied up.

You can see the album here, or on Facebook.

Here are some select pics:

From New Year's in St. Petersburg
From New Year's in St. Petersburg
From New Year's in St. Petersburg
From New Year's in St. Petersburg
From New Year's in St. Petersburg
From New Year's in St. Petersburg

Americans Less Likely to Roam

Owen | Culture, Russia | Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008

The US population is getting more calcified. I, certainly, hold on to the old traditions. Having gone to 16 different elementary and junior high schools, I consider my “hometown” to be where I went to high school - Simi Valley, CA. “Home” is wherever my suitcase is at any given moment.

I did consider St. Petersburg, Russia to be my home for 2.5 years, and in a far deeper meaning than just the place where I currently reside.

Once celebrated for their ability to pack up and move around the country on a whim, Americans are increasingly opting to stay put, according to a report published by the Pew Research Center.

Using polling data and government statistics, Pew found only 13 percent of Americans moved house between 2006-2007, the lowest rate since records began in the 1940s.

The Flying Scotsman

Owen | Personal, Politics | Tuesday, December 9th, 2008

A fellow McCain campaigner has started a political blog. He’s in Delaware, and hopefully he’ll get a chance to write about both national and Delaware issues. Welcome to the blogosphere:

The Flying Scotsman

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